When designing the watch, Cartier prioritized a svelte profile. At 111 grams, it’s also light, but as we’ll see, it’s no lightweight. All its surfaces wear a fine brushed finish. A polished bevel along the outer edges of the lugs catches the light. Between the lugs, the top of the case band angles out to meet the bracelet’s end pieces. On our test watch, this angled lip covers the gap between the strap and the case. This gives the watch a finished look, and it creates the impression that the strap is attached with curved spring bars, which it is not. The lugs are steeply curved and, combined with the rubber strap, make the Calibre Diver very comfortable to wear. The screws at the end of each lug help secure the bracelet. When a strap is fitted, the screws play only an ornamental role. The oversize crown guard teams up with the bezel to make the watch wear larger than its specs indicate. The case is officially listed at 42 mm in diameter. At 43.8 mm, the bezel is larger than the case, making it easier to grip. Add the crown guard, and the diameter is just over 45 mm.
The smooth, seven-sided crown screws down, contributing to the 300-meter water-resistance rating. The crown’s polished finish and distinctive deep blue synthetic spinel give the watch a dressy demeanor. Some may feel the blue jewel is not appropriate for a dive watch, but keep in mind that a Cartier tool is going to be an elegant tool.
The solid caseback is held in place with eight small screws. As we’ll discuss below, to those in the know, the simple “diver’s watch” inscription speaks volumes. The case is topped by an eye-catching, compliment-inducing bezel. It’s black ADLC (amorphous diamond-like carbon) over steel or rose gold, depending on the model. The deep gloss gives the watch a top-quality look. The edge of the bezel is highly polished, and crenelated for improved grip. The unidirectional bezel adjusts in 30-second increments (120 clicks per rotation).
The strap is soft rubber, and at 120 mm by 74 mm, it will fit over a wetsuit only if your wrists are small. The strap is 23.5 mm wide at the lugs, limiting precise-fitting aftermarket options. The pin buckle is solid and attractive. It has the same fine brushed finish as the case, with the Cartier name engraved on the frame. The upper, outer edge of the frame displays a fine, polished bevel. Behind the solid caseback is Cartier’s in-house automatic Caliber 1904 MC, which debuted in 2010 in the original Calibre de Cartier. This movement was designed by Cartier’s resident horological mastermind, Carole Forestier-Kasapi, and the architecture emphasizes chronometric stability. The twin, series-coupled barrels do not increase the power reserve, which is 48 hours. Rather, they smooth out the energy flow as the mainsprings wind down. Cartier claims that this design also improves movement durability, as the barrels generate less friction-inducing force. The movement runs in 27 jewels at 4 Hz, or 28,800 vph.
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